A Guide To Black Paris: With Nedjine Doréus

By: Ashley Bullock

Bienvenue à Paris

When you think of Paris, you might picture the Eiffel Tower, croissants at a cute cafe, and finally being able to wear that beret that’s been collecting dust in the back of your closet. But what if we told you there’s a version of Paris that most travel guides skip over entirely? 

I caught up with Nedjine, a Paris regular, to get the inside information on what it’s like to experience the city through a different lens. She shared all the Black-girl-friendly travel tips on where to go, what to expect, and why Black Paris is oh so special.

Nedjine’s Path to Paris

Nedjine ventured out on her first trip to Paris in the summer of 2021, right after graduating from college. Her trip to Paris was motivated by the friendships she made while studying abroad in South Africa. 

“When I was studying abroad, the girls that I became the closest with were all from France. Hearing their experience and forging friendships with them really made me want to go,” Nedjine says.

So, What Is Black Paris?

While there’s no official “Black Paris” on the map, there are areas that might feel more familiar and comfortable for people of the diaspora. For Nedjine, that place is the 18th arrondissement

Nedjine’s Photo From the 18th

“When I say Black Paris, I mean people from the diaspora who have found themselves there and you’ll find quite a bit of those folks in the 18th, which I really enjoyed. In my opinion, it’s the best place to stay”. It’s close to the iconic tourist attractions like Montmartre, but very diverse, so you still get an authentic experience. 

She also mentioned the 14th arrondissement is where you’ll find Black Parisians, especially near the universities. Nedjine describes the 14th as younger, very hip, and more local.

“I think I always feel most comfortable around people who look like me. And so I always just migrate towards that…being able to walk around and experience all different types of cultures within Paris is always incredibly fun and fascinating”.

Paris After Dark

What did that Jagged Edge song say? “Where the Party At?”

Well turns out, it’s in Paris and Nedjine gave us a full nightlife lineup: 

Wanderlust – Big outdoor party space with vendors, DJs, Afrobeats, and Amapiano. Wanderlust has a diverse crowd and excellent energy. This was one of Nejine’s top spots in Paris!

The Hoxton Lobby – Lowkey but chic bar with occasional DJs. Great for a chill drink and cute convo.

La Bellevilloise – An event space that pops off every Friday in the summer. Check out their events on IG at @classics.only.

Bastille – Bustling neighborhood that is diverse, hip, and perfect for bar-hopping. 

Rue de Lappe – Similar to Bastille, this area is fun, youthful, and great for bar-hopping.

So how else can you find these hidden gems?

According to Nedjine, the best way to discover Black Paris is by simply striking up a conversation. Ask your waiter, chat with locals, make friends, someone will always have a good recommendation.

If you’re trying to hit up a good party, start with DICE. It’s like Partiful or Eventbrite and full of listings from local organizers. Nedjine also notes that Instagram is always a great place to see what’s happening around the city.

Good Eats

If you’re headed to Paris for a summer vacay, Nedine recommends checking out Le Village International de la Gastronomie, an annual food festival near the Eiffel Tower. It features music, vendors, and cultural dishes from countries across the world. If you’re visiting during that time, it’s definitely worth checking out.

You can also round out your Paris experience with these foodie finds:

Dédé La Frite – Stop in for a delicious burger and stay for drinks at this casual bar-restaurant combo open until 2 a.m.

Dirty Lemon – Trendy, diverse, and perfect for a night out with your girls.

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte -– A world-famous Parisian eatery that only serves one thing, steak frites with their iconic secret sauce. Come hungry, because seconds are part of the deal and be prepared to wait in line as reservations are not accepted. 

Le Comptoir du Relais  A charming bistro in the 6th arrondissement. Great for French classics like duck confit, escargot, and beef tartare.

BMK Paris-Bamako  A modern West African café that serves up yassa, mafé, plantains, bissap, and more. This Black-owned spot is perfect for a comforting, flavorful meal.

Jah Jah by Le Tricycle  An Afro-vegan spot with roots in Caribbean and African culture. Think natural ingredients,  jerk jackfruit bowls, plantains, and fresh juices. This place is a real chill vibe and perfect for the vegan girlies. 

Tips From A Paris Pro

Here are a few practical tips Nedjine swears by:

Take Your Time – While it can be tempting to plan every hour, Paris is a city that invites you to slow down. Grabbing a drink at a café and people-watching is a big part of the culture, so leave room in your schedule to just relax and enjoy the moment.

Less Is More – If you’re hoping to blend in with the locals, opt for less Emily in Paris and more effortlessly chic. But if standing out is your thing, do you, girl!

Comfortable shoes – You’ll walk a lot. Don’t make your feet suffer.

Public transportation – The train is almost always faster and safer than other modes of transportation. Start with a 10-ticket pack and go from there.

Grab A SIM card – Pick up a SIM card at the airport or any phone provider when you arrive. It gives you more freedom than relying on Wi-Fi and lets you call or text local contacts.

Stay alert – Keep your belongings close, especially in crowded spots.

Nedjine’s Take On Reclaiming Space

As a Haitian woman, Nedjine shared how meaningful it feels to be in Paris and see the deep cultural connections.

“I think for me personally, the history between France and Haiti is not the best. And I think it would be easy to say, well, I’m not going to go or I don’t want to support or I feel some type of way, but I think for me, a big part of it was reclaiming space. A lot of Haitian influence and tempos exist in Paris and there’s a reason why I feel a connection to the city and it’s not because of the Parisians themselves”.

Nedjine added, there’s so much history in Paris, and it’s honestly a beautiful thing to witness. I think it’s important for us to go and really take in how far we’ve come, seeing our presence, our influence, and just how much space we occupy now. 

“There’s something really special about people like us continuing to show up and be ourselves authentically despite what the majority might look like, despite, you know, other conflicts that might be going on between the actual nations themselves. They still show up and they invest, and they create, you know, a real positive experience for those of us who choose to come and visit. So I think it’s important to go and see that for yourself”.

One Last Thing

If Paris has been on your list, this is your sign to make it happen. So go ahead, book the flight, find your people, take up space.

And when you do? Come back and tell us all about it!

Want more destination spotlights like this? Stay tuned for more travel stories, recs, and guides from the BGT community.

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